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Lisbon Travel: What I Didn’t Expect (But Absolutely Loved)

Updated: Jul 14

Before going, I read a handful of Lisbon travel tips, expecting sunshine, tiled buildings, and maybe a few custard tarts. What I didn’t expect? That this city would completely charm the socks off me. Not in a grand, dramatic way like Paris or Rome, but in a quieter, sneak-up-on-you kind of way. Lisbon was like that friend who doesn’t say much at first but ends up being the life of the party.

From the hilly streets of Alfama to the breezy cruise along the Tejo River, here’s everything I didn’t expect about Lisbon—and why I absolutely loved it all.

Rooftops with red tiles overlook a calm sea under a cloudy sky. Brightly colored buildings dot the landscape, creating a picturesque scene.
Rooftops with Red Tiles overlooking Tejo River

1. Those Hills Are No Joke (But Worth Every Step)

Everyone mentions the hills. But until you’re halfway up a cobbled street in Alfama, panting like you just ran a marathon (you didn’t), you can’t truly appreciate what a leg day Lisbon gives you. I stayed in an old Airbnb tucked somewhere between three different staircases and two barely-drivable streets.


But every time I reached the top of a hill, Lisbon gave me a reward: a sweeping view of terracotta rooftops, the Tejo River shimmering in the distance, or the sound of a street musician playing melancholic fado music. I didn’t expect to fall in love with walking. But here I was, treating every uphill slog like a pilgrimage to another gorgeous vista.


What to see in Lisbon? Honestly, just start walking. You'll stumble onto everything.


2. Staying in Alfama Was Like Living in a Postcard (With Bonus Laundry Lines)

Narrow cobblestone street with colorful buildings, flower-adorned balconies, and people walking. Warm light creates a cozy, inviting atmosphere.
Narrow Cobblestone Street in Alfama, Lisbon's oldest Neighbourhood

My Airbnb was in Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest neighborhood. I’d read it was charming, but I wasn’t ready for just how charming. Think winding alleys that seem to loop back on themselves, pastel houses with chipped paint, and grandmothers yelling from balconies in a language I don’t speak but somehow understand. Because the buildings are so old, they’re not well insulated — which means street sounds drift in like you’re right outside. Cars, conversations, clinking glasses — they all become part of your soundtrack. And don’t expect modern comforts by default: many of these traditional apartments don’t have air conditioning. Even in early fall, Lisbon can get surprisingly warm, and a lone fan spinning in the corner doesn't always cut it — so definitely check before you book.

And the laundry! Clotheslines stretch across buildings like colorful bunting for a neighborhood party. I felt like I was living in a movie, except the movie had no plot and featured a lot of uphill walking. Still, it was one of the best places to stay in Lisbon if you want authenticity and atmosphere.


3. The Trams Are Adorable (But Also a Bit Scary)


I knew I had to ride the famous yellow Tram 28. What I didn’t know was that it’d feel like being on a rollercoaster built in 1930. It rattles, it squeals, it takes corners like it's trying to lose a tail in a spy movie.

But it’s also absolutely worth it. Not just for the experience, but because it gives you a tour of some of Lisbon’s most beautiful areas without needing to do more cardio. (Bless.)


Things to do in Lisbon? Ride Tram 28, hold on tight, and pretend you’re in a vintage action film.


4. São Jorge Castle Has the Best Views (And a Lot of Peacocks)

A panoramic view of Lisbon with red-roofed buildings and a river, set against a cloudy sky. The bridge spans the water in the background.

I visited São Jorge Castle on a sunny afternoon, expecting a few ruins and maybe a view. What I got? One of the most breathtaking vistas of Lisbon and a casual gang of peacocks strutting around like they owned the place.

Ancient stone castle with crenelated towers against a cloudy sky. Greenery in foreground; a cobbled path and bridge visible below.
Sao Jorge Castle in Lisbon

It was quiet, peaceful, and surprisingly green. I sat on the old walls, letting the breeze hit my face, watching the red roofs and white buildings cascade down the hills. I thought I was just ticking off a tourist attraction. Instead, I ended up staying for hours.


5. The Food Scene is About More Than Just Pastel de Nata

Grilled cuttlefish with garlic oil, roasted potatoes, and steamed broccoli on a white plate. Background features green bottles.

Look, I love custard tarts. I had at least two a day, no regrets. But Lisbon’s food scene caught me off guard in the best way. Sardines on toast? Delicious. Grilled octopus? Life-changing. Even the soups like caldo verde, felt like getting a warm hug.

I quickly fell in love with the seafood stews served in small cozy restaurants — rich, comforting, and brimming with flavor. Each bite tasted like the ocean met someone’s grandmother’s kitchen. Whether it was cataplana or caldeirada, there was something soul-warming about the way Lisbon does seafood.I didn’t expect to love the food so much that I’d start planning my day around meals. (Okay, I totally did expect that. But it still surprised me how good everything was.)


Lisbon Travel Tips: Eat everything. Then walk it off up one of those many hills.



6. A Cruise on the Tejo River = Instant Relaxation

A red suspension bridge spans a sparkling river. A sailboat glides below, with hilly greenery in the background under a clear blue sky.
Tejo River

Booking a cruise on the Tejo River was one of my more spontaneous decisions, and I’m so glad I did it. Floating past Lisbon’s skyline, seeing the 25 de Abril Bridge (hello, mini Golden Gate!), and watching the sun dip behind the city was pure magic.

There was wine. There were snacks. There were seagulls making dramatic entrances. I didn’t expect to enjoy it so much, but it turned out to be one of my favorite experiences in Lisbon.


7. Baixa Is Where I Felt Lisbon’s Pulse

Baixa is downtown Lisbon, and while it's more polished than Alfama, it still had so much character. Big squares like Praça do Comércio, wide streets lined with shops, and cafés that are perfect for people-watching. The architecture is grand but not overwhelming — lots of neoclassical buildings with intricate tilework and just the right touch of faded elegance.

I didn’t expect to spend so much time here, but it was the ideal contrast to Alfama’s maze. The symmetry and light made everything feel airy and elegant, like the city suddenly decided to slow down and breathe. It’s the kind of place where you can wander aimlessly, window shop, or just stand still and enjoy the rhythm of the city.


Bonus: you can grab a seat at a sidewalk café, order a pastel de nata and a bica, and pretend you're a local who does this every day — no rush, no agenda, just soaking it all in.


8. The Weather Was Even Better Than Advertised

I went to Lisbon early September, expecting mild sunshine. What I got was blue skies, breezy afternoons, and golden hour that seemed to last forever. Lisbon practically glows in this light.

Lisbon travel advice? Bring sunscreen. And a light scarf so you can feel dramatic when the wind hits just right.


9. Fado Music Hit Me Right in the Feels

I’m not usually one for traditional music shows, but a friend convinced me to see a live fado performance. Cue emotional breakdown.

There’s something about that voice, the haunting guitar, the intimacy of a tiny venue that just gets under your skin. I didn’t expect to feel so moved by music in a language I don’t understand, but wow! I left with goosebumps and a new playlist.


10. Lisbon Isn’t Trying to Impress You (And That’s Why It Does)



Colorful buildings with a white dome under a clear blue sky. People and bicycles on the street below. Vibrant, bustling atmosphere.
Colourful Buildings in Alfama, Lisbon's Oldest Neighbourhood

Lisbon isn’t flashy. It’s not loud. It doesn’t shove itself in your face like some other cities do. It just quietly is. And that’s what makes it unforgettable.


I didn’t expect to love Lisbon this much. But it snuck up on me with its laundry lines, steep stairs, flaky pastries, and lazy afternoons. And now, every time someone says, “I’m thinking of going to Lisbon,” I basically grab their arm and scream, “YES. GO. IMMEDIATELY.”


📌 Useful Links for Planning Your Trip to Lisbon:


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