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Wandering Through Alghero Old Town: A Sardinian Dream

Updated: Aug 12

You know those places you visit that just click with you? That was Alghero for me. I wasn’t even planning to fall in love with this little Sardinian seaside town—but from the moment I wandered into its old town, I was smitten. Maybe it was the smell of the sea mixed with espresso. Or the fact that every corner looked like a movie set. But Alghero just has that magic.


Nestled on Sardinia’s northwest coast, Alghero is known for its Catalan roots, medieval architecture, and stunning sunsets. But what really got me was the vibe—relaxed, friendly, a bit mysterious in the best way. Let me take you on a walk through what turned out to be one of my favorite places in Italy.

Boats docked at a vibrant marina in Alghero (Sardinia) under a bright blue sky. Buildings line the waterfront. Calm and picturesque atmosphere.
Alghero Marina

A Stroll Back in Time

The old town of Alghero (centro storico) is like a living postcard. Once I passed through the stone arches and left the modern roads behind, I felt like I’d stepped into another era. The streets are cobbled and winding—totally confusing and totally perfect for aimless wandering.

What struck me most was how warm and golden everything felt. The buildings are painted in soft earthy tones—ochre, dusty rose, pale yellow—and they glow under the Sardinian sun. I stopped constantly just to admire balconies overflowing with bougainvillea or peek into tiny artisan shops.

One of the first places I found myself was along the old sea walls. These were built by the Aragonese in the 16th century and still encircle most of the old town. The view from the ramparts is something else—waves crashing against rocks, little fishing boats bobbing in the turquoise water, and the Capo Caccia cliffs looming dramatically in the distance.

Pro tip: Go there in the early evening. That’s when the locals start to come out for a passeggiata (evening stroll), the light turns golden, and the sea breeze feels just right.


Getting (Happily) Lost

One of my favorite afternoons was completely unplanned. I had no map, no itinerary, just a gelato in hand (from Gelateria K2—get the pistachio), and I let myself wander. I ended up in a tiny piazza where an older man was playing the accordion and a couple of kids were chasing pigeons. It felt so... real. Like I’d stumbled into someone’s memory.

I stopped at a little café called Café Triskel, tucked into an alley shaded by overhanging vines. The espresso was strong, the owner smiled like he’d known me for years, and a cat decided my lap was the best seat in town. I stayed for an hour, just watching life go by.


Catalan Heart, Italian Soul

Alghero’s roots are fascinating. The locals still speak a form of Catalan called Algherese, and many street signs are in both Catalan and Italian. You’ll also see the Spanish influence in the architecture, especially in churches like Chiesa di San Francesco. This church dates back to the 14th century and is a peaceful little retreat from the buzz outside. Its cloister is a hidden gem—I sat there for a while, letting the cool shade and ancient stones work their calming magic.


Later, I visited the Cathedral of Santa Maria, which dominates Piazza Duomo. Inside, it’s grand and serene, with beautiful chapels and ornate altars. But honestly, one of the best parts was just sitting on the cathedral steps, eating a fresh seada (a traditional Sardinian pastry filled with cheese and drizzled with honey—don’t knock it till you try it).


A Foodie's Paradise

Okay, let’s talk about the food. I could probably write a separate blog post just about the meals I had in Alghero.

One night, I had dinner at Al Tuguri, a small, slightly fancy spot hidden in the old town. I went a little overboard (no regrets). First course: octopus salad with citrus. Then, I had the lobster alla Catalana—a cold dish with tomatoes, onion, olive oil, and perfectly cooked lobster. For dessert? A glass of mirto (a local myrtle liqueur) and a decadent chocolate mousse.

Another night, I kept it casual and ate at Bar Focacceria Milese, which is super popular with locals and tourists alike. Their focaccia sandwiches are legendary—warm, crusty, packed with Sardinian meats and cheeses. I ate mine on the sea wall, watching the sunset with a cold Ichnusa beer. Total bliss.

Also, if you see spaghetti alla bottarga (pasta with cured fish roe) on the menu, order it. It’s a Sardinian specialty, super savory and unique. I had a killer version at Osteria Macchiavello, where the waiter gave me a five-minute speech on the history of bottarga. I loved it.

Cobblestone street scene in Alghero with people walking. Outdoor café seating with yellow awning and plants. Historic buildings line both sides, sunny day.
Old Town of Alghero, Sardinia

Shopping & Souvenirs

Alghero is famous for its red coral, and you’ll see it everywhere in the jewelry stores lining the old town. I stopped in a boutique called Corallium Rubrum where the owner, a third-generation artisan, showed me how the coral is harvested and shaped. I ended up buying a small pendant—nothing flashy, just simple and elegant. It’s now one of my favorite travel keepsakes.

I also picked up a pair of handmade leather sandals from a stall near Piazza Civica. The guy making them had set up a little workshop right on the street and customized the straps for my feet. I wore them for the rest of the trip.


Evenings in Alghero

Nighttime in the old town is something special. The streets light up with a warm glow, restaurants spill out into the alleyways, and the air fills with the clinking of glasses and the smell of grilled fish.

I remember sitting outside Trattoria Lo Romani, sharing a bottle of Vermentino (a crisp local white wine), and watching a group of musicians set up in the square. They played a mix of Italian folk and Spanish guitar, and before long, people were dancing—locals, tourists, kids, even a dog got involved.

Another night, I joined a couple I’d met earlier in the day for drinks at The Kings, a chill cocktail bar right on the Bastioni. Their Negroni was top-notch, and the view over the sea at night? Unreal.


Side Trips Worth Doing

As much as I loved the old town, I did take a couple of day trips. The most unforgettable one was a boat tour to Neptune’s Grotto. It’s a massive sea cave at the base of the Capo Caccia cliffs, filled with stalactites, stalagmites, and underground lakes. I opted for the boat ride from Alghero’s harbor instead of the 600-step stairway (called the Escala del Cabirol) because I’m not trying to die on vacation.

Also worth checking out: Spiaggia di Maria Pia, a long stretch of white sand just outside town. I spent a lazy afternoon there with a book, a sandwich, and zero stress. The water was warm and clear, and there were pine trees providing natural shade. Heaven.

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Modern buildings and palm trees line a sunny beachfront promenade. Blue sky, sandy paths, and parked cars create a relaxed coastal vibe.

Parting Thoughts

I came to Alghero without much of a plan—just a desire to unwind and eat well. What I found was a place that felt like a warm hug: cozy, unpretentious, a little bit magical. There’s something about the old town’s pace of life that seeps into you. No one’s in a hurry. People smile more. Time feels softer.

If you’re thinking of visiting Sardinia, put Alghero at the top of your list—and don’t just pass through. Spend a few days. Walk slowly. Watch the sun set over the walls. Talk to the locals. Eat everything. Let the town surprise you the way it did me.

Orange cat perched on a stone wall, looking curious. Background shows a light-colored building with green shutters and a fenced yard.
Orange Cat on a Stone Wall in Alghero, Sardinia

I left with sandy feet, a coral necklace, a new appreciation for bottarga, and a very full camera roll. But more than anything, I left with that rare feeling you get when a place feels like it welcomed you with open arms.


Want to know more about where I stayed, what I packed, or other Sardinia tips? Drop me a message—I’m always happy to talk travel (especially if it involves gelato and sunsets).


Useful Links for Planning Your Trip to Alghero, Sardinia


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